SCOTLAND | Edinburgh: The Two Towns
In his book ‘The Glory of Scotland’, first published in 1932, the author J.J Bell eloquently describes arriving in Edinburgh via the railway :
‘Emerging from either of the stations, you find yourself standing with To-day and Yesterday on the broad pavement of the present, looking up at a panorama of the past’
Over eighty years later, that description still rings true as you emerge into the modern commercial hustle and bustle of Princes Street from Waverley railway station. The Christmas market (complete with a big wheel and the whirling ‘Star Flyer’ ride) which takes place from late November through to New Year, also brings in the crowds to what is an already impressive high street.
Above the new town sits the old town, Royal Mile and Edinburgh castle – a reminder of Edinburgh’s history and turbulent past. In 1745, the Jacobites under the leadership of Bonnie Prince Charlie captured Edinburgh but failed to take the castle, which continued to take pot-shots at any passing Jacobite rebel that came into range during the entire time that Edinburgh was under Jacobite rule.
These days the only ‘shots’ come from tourist cameras and the one o’clock gun, an L118 field gun fired by the district gunner and used to signal the time to the city. Originally it was started to help the ships anchored offshore keep correct time – the ship’s clock essential for accurate navigation back in the 19th century. The ships have long gone but the tradition for sounding the time remains.
Given Edinburgh’s rich history, it should come as no surprise that there is a rich ghost trail culture in the city. I counted four trails that could be signed up to during my visit and I’m sure there are more. One I didn’t miss was the Edinburgh Ghost Bus tour that combined the theatre, ghost stories and a bus journey to create one of the best journeys I’ve ever taken. Comedy is the key ingredient with just a wee measure of horror to create the scares with the character of the creepy conductor – called Jasper – as a spooky guide.
I did manage to get a portrait of Jasper, who thankfully actively encouraged photography during the trip around Edinburgh. The portrait though was not easy to get. The bus was moving, it was dark and the lighting on the 1960’s era double-decker bus was not particularly great. Of the three images, only one turned out without motion blur and I believe that was down to timing and Jasper standing still. You may have noticed in the photo that he seems to have seen me taking the photo and posed!
All of the images were taken using an iPhone – probably one of the best devices for taking street photos. The images are largely displayed in the order they were taken in. As for the monochrome style, the images were taken using the Hipstamatic app using a filter set first used for Sea, Sky, Sand and Street. I do like the gritty visual style but it does contain that element of danger of being overused, like so many filters in photography.
Whilst taking the monochrome files off the iPhone I found the original colour files had also been saved on the camera. Several have been posted on my Instagram feed.
The Two Towns photography is an offshoot of the Scotland: Lowlands, Highlands and Islands project.